Natures Sweeties

Havnt posted a blog in a good week or so but I’m back! Pretty new to blogging so bear with me!

A very quick post today just showing you the finished article or a handmade, 18ct yellow gold pink tourmaline cabochon ring. A week or so ago I made a similar piece with the most amazing pink tourmaline, it was crystal clear with some stunning inclusions which made the ring so unique. I sold the ring and it’s now living in Denmark which is of course great.

 

long story short, I missed it so I had to make another similar ring, the design isn’t too different but I’ll never get another stone like the first. I wanted to keep the design simple and really show off the stone, I find too much clutter can detract from the centre stone but anyway, here is the current!

The tourmaline is almost purple, it is heavily included which to a lot of people decreases its desireablitly but to me it only makes it more special. Inclusions make each stone what it is for me, of course there’s beauty in a flawless diamond or a crystal clear sapphire but the inclusions in a stone is really what makes them for me, they’re unique and make each stone very different which I like.

Tourmaline has to be my favourite stone, it’s colour variants, variety in cuts and inclusions make is so appealing to me. I’m liking pink and green tourmaline lately as you might be able to tell 😂 

It will never stop baffling me how these beautiful gemstones come from the earth and are totally natural, yeah they’ve been cut and polished but other than that, totally natural 😍 

anyhow, I hope everyone’swell and You like the ring and I’ll see you In the next post! 

follow my instagram for daily updates on how I make rings like this beauty above - 

 https://www.instagram.com/rustysjewellery/?hl=en

Peace and love,

Rusty

X

 

 

Today’s Work // Solid 18ct gold and sapphire ring

Quick post today, wanted to share a piece I’m pretty proud of, it’s a solid 18ct yellow gold sapphire eternity band...well...my take on an eternity band. I made this eternity band initially in silver with iolite a while back and really liked it. It’s a classic ring style with my twist. Every piece starts life as silver/gold grain which is melted down into an ingot which is then hand forged to the final shape and form, every mark makes each ring unique to the wearer.

How each piece starts...gold grain in this case.

How each piece starts...gold grain in this case.

My thinking behind the ring was that I wanted each stone to have its own character and wanted each setting visually unique, like the stars in the sky, no setting is the same. 

Heres a photo of the original silver band I made:

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As much as I like this ring, my skills have developed and setting work has come on a fair amount so here’s the 18ct gold version with 8 sapphires:

So why am I proud of this particular ring? Purely because it’s the piece which personifies the direction I’m heading with my work. I dreamed of working in the most precious materials the world has to offer and here it is. 

check our some more photos/video of this piece on my instagram 

Peace and love,

Rusty X

Why I choose the longer approach...

Lately, speed and instant everything is all the rage, we like things now and don’t want to wait. For instance, mobile phones. We can bring up our nearest coffee shop and how to get there in seconds, we can now order something on amazon and get it delivered the very same day without you getting out of a chair or watch anything that we want with a few clicks on the computer. Now as amazing as all this is and even though it makes life much easier I try to use my work and my process’ as a means for me to slow down a touch and really enjoy actually doing something and see it all come together.

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The forging of the Luna cuff from NOCTIS 


Forging is for me the perfect process for this, it requires patience, attention and a bit of oomph. It’s pretty cool to see a ‘lump” of silver (in this case) turn into something wearable which will last a lifetime...and then some.  

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The centre Moonstone

Now I’m not saying to go all Neanderthal and throw away phones, pull out an actual paper map and walk everywhere you go but I am saying to try where you can to slow down and enjoy the process of something. This doesn’t only link to jewellery by the way, it could be anything, take up a hobby or reignite an old one, go for a nice walk or simply just sit down with a tea and do nothing for 5 minutes!  Some of my tune out time is making pieces, especially setting. Been massively enjoying the process of setting stones, there’s something cool about knowing that something natural, beautiful and precious is living inside something you crafted. Setting takes a good eye, patience and precision.

 

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Nearly there.

so my little take home point? Enjoy the process. Often you’ll find that you spend A fair amount of time on the road to somewhere than you do at the final destination so why rush?

Peace and love,

Rusty. 

How it’s made...sterling silver Cuban Link.

A big part of this blog page is to share the ins and out of day to day life in the jewellery game but the biggest component was for me to show the process in a more in-depth look than i show on my instagram ( @rustysjewellery ) It’s important to me for you guys to be able to see how things are done as I believe the process is a massive part of the end product and makes it extra special!

find below how i make my solid silver Cuban link bracelet:

The melt: 

I’m melting around 70g/80g of sterling silver scrap and pouring two ingots. One into an old school ingot mould and the other into my durston adjustable ingot mould. Once these have been poured, quenched and pickled, I then forge the ingots into a rough square shape ready for the rolling mill. I use 70/80g of silver to be safe. It won’t weigh that much but it’s better to have too many links opposed to too little, you’d have to do this whole process again to make more.  

The mill

The mill

I’m rolling the ingots out into square wire which I will then draw down to round wire. I roll until the silver has almost doubled in length, I roll in small increments (around  10 minute turns on the rolling mill) that way I don’t stress the silver too much which can cause cracking. I’m always checking the silver to see how hard it is.

The draw

The draw

 I haven’t got a nice posh drawbench...dammit man I wish I did. So I use my bench vice. I pop the drawplate into the vice, use some self locking pliers with jaws, brace with my foot and give it a good old pull. This isn’t glamourous at all but does the job. I either file or forge the end of the square wire into a taper so I can go into the smaller hole and force it through. 

The jump ring

The jump ring

To make the jump rings I pop a flat drill bit into the vice along with the ugly end of the silver wire next to it so both the bit and silver are secure. The drill bit shank is perfect for what I need. I simply wrap the silver around the drill bit tightly for nice even jump rings.

 

The solder

The solder

Cheeky screen shot of a soldering video, each link is then soldered individually, it’s pretty time consuming and you’ll find some people don’t actually solder links on chunky link bracelets purely because the thickness of the links alone is pretty strong but I wouldn’t feel comfortable that the bracelet would last a lifetime...that’s my thinking. 

‘I don’t show a photo of the forming but I then work each link so that it has the classic Cuban link shape. 

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The chain must hang/lie straight. I opted for a simple/secure S catch. The catch is then hardened so that it is more secure and less likely to bend. 

The finished piece! 

The finished piece! 

Once I’ve filed and cleaned up each solder joint and removed any tool marks I then polish to a high shine! I love this piece, it’s super classic/old school and will look awesome however you wear it.

There you go! That’s how I make my Cuban link bracelets! You have grab it here: http://www.rustysjewellery.co.uk/shop/handmade-cuban-link-bracelet-solid-stering-silver 

One thing I want to make clear is that this isn’t the only way to make a Cuban link it’s just how I work it and it works for me. I also want to point out that I’m not a teacher, this is just deeper look into my little workshop.

Anyway! I hope you enjoyed this blog post and if you did, please share with your friends, comment or like, it will encourage me to do more!

Peace and love. Rusty. X

The Blog...First one.

The blog. I've been toying with starting a blog for a while now but I've recently realised that its a really good platform to show my process', the day to day ins and outs of making jewellery and also just as a place for me to, i dunno, chat?

So what are you going to expect from this blog page? As mentioned above im going to be showing some of the process behind my work and general day to day stuff as well as a place for you guys to get to know me bit more. I used to be abit against talking about myself or my personal life but recently I've thought that its nice for people to know who is making the shiny things you see! now im not saying im going to be uploading "selfies" and all that but im going to make a conscious effort to try and inject abit more of my personality into my social platforms and on my site :) 

Ill start first off with a short intro to me...My name is Sonny (AKA Rusty, either is fine :) ) and I've been a jeweller/goldsmith/silversmith for around 3 years. Im self taught and honestly, just fell into it. I used to be a personal trainer and i did that for around 6 years since i was 16 till around 22, now 24, i wanted to do something abit more creative as i always thought that it was in me. My dad gave me his old ring and the rest is history, curiosity got the cat so to speak. I done my "2 year apprenticeship" where i basically learnt what i could from books, videos and social networking then as of January 2017 felt i was competent enough and i started as a proper company and took the job of a jeweller seriously. A year on im still going, still learning, still developing and still loving it! I feel pretty fortunate to be in a position where i love my job, i can earn a living from it and im still pretty young. I will forever be a student and im always experimenting with new techniques to try and expand my work.

So after that little intro, im going to be uploading to the blog once a week on mondays, i think thats regular enough that you don't get bored but not so often that i haven't got a clue what to write about! Im pretty excited about this new platform (for me) to share some stuff with you and i hope you enjoy what i put out as it is for you! If theres anything you would like to read specifically then please let me know and ill do my best to get that across!

Peace and love, Rusty

Me and my Lady liane

            Me and my lady Liane